Montreal, Part 1

I headed out from Boston and boarded the famous Greyhound bus line to Montreal in Québec, Canada. As this was a night bus, we crossed the border at approximately 4:30 in the AM. As it turns out, immigration officers at this particular border crossing hold 9-5 hours, and so the customs officials were less than happy to process an Australian with a working visa. And my French is not adequate so early in the morning, so I insisted on English, which didn't help. And so it was me that held up the bus of Canadians and Americans, while my visa was processed. not the best start to my stay in Canada, but I was in.

Québec remains a primarily francophone country, and this point of difference lends itself to a fierce independance felt by some of its inhabitants. To sum up a particularly sensitive and important issue in such a format won't do it justice, and so if you're interested in understanding more about the Québecois, I'd simply suggest you start here. All I will say is that it is a sensitive issue here, but one that is very interesting to an Australian - we don't have any questions about our official language, but some parallels can be drawn to the republican debate at home.

Montreal is the first city on this trip in which I knew people, and so marks the beginning of my international couch surfing experience. Eric visited Oz back in 2008, and graciously has let me stay with him for a couple of weeks. He lives in the apartment with his girlfriend Roxanne, her twin sister Vanessa, and Matt, an Australian who has come over to play rugby in Canada. After getting picked up and settled in, I set about checking out the sights and sounds of Montreal.

Matt, Roxanne & Eric (Vanessa was busy breaking her finger in a car door at the time)

As one of the oldest cities in North America, Montreal abounds with history and curiosities. But to learn this hostory, one needs a good grasp of French. The city of Montreal lies on a series of islands on the St Lawrence river, and the river (as is the case with most cities) played a large role in the early years of the city. The old part of town is a quaint, cobblestone labyrinth, reminiscent of Paris, a city it was no doubt modeled upon. The city hall and related bildings certainly remind me of similar buildings in different cities in France.

Montreal has played host to a variety of big name events, most notably the World's Fair and 1976 Olympic games. Coming into spring, Canada isn't exactly a tropical oasis atm and I was told to leave the World's fair site for a summer day. The Olympic stadium is interesting, but not for the right reasons. Apparently, it was such a ridicuolously expensive design that it has only recently been paid off, and that corruption was so rife during construction (concrete was diverted to build foundations for builders' homes), that it is already falling apart.

The Stade Olympique - a serious amount of (missing) concrete

I caught up with another friend, Bonnie for dinner one night to catch up and for me to see a bit of the town. She's always a barrel of laughs, so it was good to see her again. She lives in the gay part of town, and has offered to take me around the clubs in the area, so who knows - in the next entry I may be able to offer a look at the 'other' part of town!

One thing Montreal takes seriously is its hockey. the Montreal Canadiens (the Habs) is one of the oldest and most successful teams in sporting history. As the last game in the season was both at home and against local rivals, the Toronto Maple Leafs, it was a must-do on my list. Tickets weren't easy to come by, but I got them online in Feburary, and so Eric and I headed off to the Bell Centre to watch the Habs smash the Leafs 3-1. A few observations from someone who has only seen the game previously on tv: the puck is alot easier to follow live than onscreen, they take breaks in the game for commercials, and nothing can prepare you for 20,000 screaming, mental fans in a small, indoor arena. It was insane, and brilliant. I wouldn't say I'm a passionate fan yet, but I definitely have more of an interest now.

Beer is everywhere here. Every Depanneur (convenience store) sells beer and wine (liquor is sold through specific SAQ outlets), and the volumes. Dear god, the volumes. I recently went through (not on the same night): a 1.18L bottle of 10.1% beer, a 4L jug of normal beer, and participated in a 10L tower of beer (Mat, this has your name on it when you get up here!)! It's reasonably cheap, although factoring the returns (Québec has a container deposit scheme similar to South Australia), it is bargain basement prices all round. Good Stuff. I'm making it my duty to try them all.

Thankfully, the beer doesn't get cold quick here!

Gastronomic Adventures, Part 1 - Clam Chowder

A local delicacy in New England is Clam Chowder (pronounced "chow-da") soup, served in a hollowed out sourdough bun. The recipe changes dramatically as you cross the country, and each area considers theirs the best. New England style chowder features a milk or cream base, with potatoes, crackers and onions, as well as the obvious clams. I have to say that Boston does seem to have it down. It tasted great, and went down a treat on such a cold day.

Boston, MA

Said goodbye to New York and headed from my hostel on 87th st down to Chinatown to catch the cheap bus to Boston. While the subway is undeniably popular and efficient, it isn't geared towards the disabled, or those carrying large bags. Those stairs are killer. Combined with an early morning run up along the Hudson (in thermals and a beanie!) and I was feeling ready for a nap on the bus to Boston.

Boston, MA is one of the oldest cities in the US, steeped in history, particularly as the flashpoint of the American revolution and consequent birth of modern democracy. The local universities (Harvard and MIT amongst them) contribute to this rich tapestry of history, and combined with Fenway park (home of the Red Sox) provide a beautiful range of both architecture and parklands that make Boston a truly beautiful city. A statistic to note is that during semester, 1 in 5 Bostonians are attending one of the many universities - It is the highest density of college students of any city in the western hemisphere.

Boston, taken from Boston Public Park & Commons - America's 1st Botanical Gardens & Park respectively

The must-see sight in Boston is without a doubt the freedom trail. Starting in the Boston Commons/Public Garden, the trail passes famous landmarks such as the old north church, the old state house, and the Bunker Hill monument. I found a mp3 guide online, which proved a cheap and interesting way to see the sights. I won't go into too much detail, but the whole experience was fascintaing, especially as a foreigner with a differing view on imperialism.

The Old state house - site of the Boston 'Massacre'

One of the lesser known sights in Boston is the site of the Molasses Disaster of 1919. A tank near the wharf ruptured, and 8,700 cubic metres of molasses poured out into the street. The 40 foot wave resulted in the killing 21 people and injuring of hundreds. Rescuers struggled to pull people from the sticky substance, and the cleanup took weeks. It is said that even now, on a hot day, that the smell of molasses can be detected in the area.

The hostel was across the road from Boston's premier sports stadium, the garden - host of the both the Boston Celtics and Bruins. But on saturday, there was only one show in town - the one, the only, the Harlem Globetrotters. Facing the designated bad guys, the "international elite" for the world championship, the game was a polished display of basketball and athletic skills, with a generous helping of comedy thrown in. The result went according to the script, with the Globetrotters winning with seconds to go. The seriousness of the game is all but forgotten as slapstick comedy and trickshots become the focus. Definitely an entertaining evening, albeit one geared more for families.

The Garden - Home to both the Celtics and Bruins

Boston is now a knowledge hub, with many prestigious universities such as Harvard and MIT. A visit to both these campuses across the river from downtown Boston is a must on any itinerary. Founded in 1636, Harvard university is based in the town of Cambridge (a homage to the alma mater of the original academics) and is a beautiful campus. While MIT is much younger and is less architecturally interesting, it is academically superior in the engineering game.

Widener Library - The Harvard Library System is one of the largest, with over 15 million volumes

PHOTOS AVAILABLE HERE

New York City

NYC. The Big Apple. A thousand nicknames, 8 million people, and virtually unlimited things to see and do. The last time I had visited was in the 90's, so I was keen to find out what had changed. As it turns out, both nothing and everything.

New York seems to polarize people - there are those who love it, and those who hate it. I am a little of both. I love that there is always something to do, and love the history, architecture and central park. However, I don't like the relentless pace and aggressiveness of life here. There comes a time where the crazy lady on the subway next to the beggar stops being quirky, and starts being annoying (less than the time it takes for her to squeeze her huge ass out of the doors, for those of you playing at home). And after you've seen all the shows, buildings and Central Park, you're left with the lady shouting in your ear. In short, I love to pack my suitcase for the big apple, but am not in any rush to pack my stuff into moving boxes.

This trip to NYC was a whirlwind stopover - 2 nights, and really only 1 full day. There's no way you can see half of what New York has to offer, so I had to pick and choose what I wanted to seee.

Central Park is a must for everyone. One of the world's largest inner city parks with an estimated land value approching $529 billion, Central Park is undoubtedly the centrepeice of New York. On a slight tangent, New York seems to be obsessed with Tulips and Daffodils. They're as ubiquitous as a yellow cab around these parts. They were literally the only flowers on display throughout the city.

The most obvious change to the landscape is the big open space downtown that used to be occuopied by the world trade centre. The city was left with a veritable scar, and the memorial dedicated to 9/11 has yet to be completed. Accoridngly, very few tourists were getting through the gates, and I had to continue on, disappointed.

For the tv fans out there, I visited the home of NBC studios at 30 Rockafeller Plaza (hence the show 30 Rock) as well as passed by Dave Letterman's studio. Still yet to see any celebrities mind you.

Food looms large in any New York itinerary, and Bagels for breakfast, hotdogs for lunch and  fried chicken (in Harlem) for dinner took care of that. On a related note, I'd forgotten how good real fried chicken was. KFC just doesn't stack up.

If I had had more time, I would have visited Nathan's in Brooklyn, the Met, as well as the bronx. I have the sneaking suspicion that sights well off the island of Manhattan often get missed, and this trip is no exception. A show on off or off-off broadway would have also been nice. Most Broadway shows (Wicked, Jersey Boys, Mamma Mia) travel the world, so it would have been nice to have seen something that would have only played in NYC.

Overall the city has become a cleaner, nicer version of it's 90's self, remaining true to its roots and attractions, while becoming more accessible to the average tourist not comfortable with 4 letter words and piles of bodily fluids on pavements.

PHOTOS AVAILABLE HERE

36 Hours in Limbo

And so it begins. My life has been packed up into a few suitcases, defying the laws of physics by remaining under the maximum weight. I did resemble a pack mule though. Handy hint for the day: wearing a motorcycle touring jacket in an airport will get you noticed, and not always by those you want to take notice. As the security officer pulled me aside and explained the procedures for a explosive residue scan in a thick Russian accent, it was all I could do not to snigger, as a dozen hollywood blockbuster moments suddenly came to mind. But I suppressed my inner James Bond, and the scanner obviously missed the copious amounts of fuel and oil residue on my jacket and boots.

The flight plan: Perth to New York City via Sydney and Los Angeles, with long delays at each stop. The damage: just short of 36hrs.

The first flight was good. But then, it's unlikely to be a terrible flight when it was free (go frequent flyer points!) and the booze (also free) is flowing.

In Sydney, the first major obstacle presented itself. It appears that US customs require proof of purchase of a flight out of their country, regardless of how you plan to exit. My flight home from Santiago wasn't going to cut it. So 1 fully refundable ticket to London from New York later, I was ready to head to LAX. In the end, it's probably a good thing I had 8 hours in SYD, as it meant things weren't rushed. As it turns out, the immigration department didn't even check.

The 14 hour flight to LAX obviously messed with my head, as I left a bag in the baggage claim and passed through quarantine. I realized pretty quick, but security being what it is, couldn't go back and pick it up. I'm seriously considering changing my name to Murphy at this point. Again, things turned out ok, as the staff at LAX were able to get my bag onto my NYC flight.

If there's one thing I've learned about air travel it's this: the most important decision to make other than the carrier is the plane. It sounds obvious, but how many people would choose their flights based on the kind of plane that will be flying that day? I chose the SYD-LAX route based on one factor - the Airbus A380. The largest commercial passenger carrier in the world, the A380 is a marvel of technology and engineering. 

First flown in 2005, the Airbus A380 has a maximum takeoff weight of 600 tonnes (larger than this will damage the wings), and could accomodate 850 economy class only passengers. At full capacity, it requires 2.75km of runway to get off the ground, and must shed 200,000kg before landing. QANTAS, as with most other airlines, carries around 525 passengers, the difference representing the extra space requirements for the higher classes. It can travel for 15,000 km on it's 320,000L fuel tank. Assuming it used a full tank of fuel to move 850 passengers, it represents 39.84 passenger km/L. the 4 Rolls Royce engines each produce 320kN of thrust, yet remain quieter than the engines on a 747.

All of this adds up to an enjoyable experience, critical when you're expected to sit in a seat for up to 14 hours. On this note, it appears the US TSA forbids passengers congregating in numbers (eg lining up for the toilet) on any flight bound for America, although how they'd police such a policy is unclear. But back to the A380 - in seat screens and legroom are far more important to me than which airport around which I will aimlessly wander for a few hours. LAX though has to rank as one of the most hopelessly designed airports ever. Terminal 4 alone has several screening areas, all with inadequate space. The result - a team of employees moving travelers through waiting areas resembling cattle pens.

For all my flights I chose QANTAS, for several reasons. They were reasonably cheap, especially when frequent flyer points are considered. From a patriotic point of view, QANTAS are the logical choice. But more than that, it's the comfort factor, and a feeling of home. At the end of the trip, a familiar accent sounding over the plane intercom is a welcome pleasure. Factor in the (still) superior safety record, and QANTAS is a clear winner.

Packing

So, this week I've been completing the most dreaded of all holiday tasks - packing. And it's been brutal.While I'm sure I could find a use for my st Paddy's day Guinness hat, when you have to fit all your worldly possessions on the back of a motorcycle, it simply can't come. The vast majority of stuff I'm packing involves the bike in some way - riding clothes, helmet, spares and toolkit. After that, there's room for a few tshirts, guidebooks and a laptop. Only time will tell what was needed, what proved as useless as t**s on a bull, and what I rue not bringing while stranded on the edge of the road in the middle of nowhere.

Route (nearly) sorted

I've done it. After alot of deliberation, the planned route for the trip is sorted. It will undoubtedly change as I travel, as roads prove boring or difficult, and as I learn more about different places from fellow travelers.

Much thanks to whoever set up Travellerspoint.com, as it has proved pretty easy to put the list of destinations on a single map.

I have broken the trip up into several legs, according to region and transport.

Leg 1 will be the Trans Labrador Highway in Canada, a recently completed circuit through sub arctic tundra, passing icebergs, polar bears, moose, and (apparently) the weirdest of all - the locals, or Newfies. It's about as remote as a unassisted motorbike can go (~200km between towns), before planes and boats (and dog sleds) become the favoured methods of transport. A good journey to test out the bike, with 1st world support should something go wrong.

Leg 2 is the good ol' US of A. While I'll never debate the attractiveness of the US from tourism perspective, my main focus here is catching up with friends.

Leg 3 (Central America) is where things start to get more challenging, as I expect the road condition to deteriorate somewhat, but things will also get cheaper, so there's always a silver lining.

Leg 4 is the big one. From Colombia through the Guayanas, up the Amazon through to Peru and the infamous sights of the gringo trail. From Rio, I turn south to Buenos Aires, and then race to Ushuaia in Patagonia.

Leg 5 is possibly the most exciting, and yet, the most effortless. Antarctica. One of the most isolated, driest and coldest places on the earth. And I'm going for a swim (check this out).

Leg 6 is the dash home before Christmas, with a few stops on the way.